Is “ethical fashion” hindering your style?
You've probably been led to believe from an early age that fashion is frivolous. What really matters are things money can't buy, and you shouldn't rely on "things" for your happiness - after all you can't take it with you. For many this has created more internal struggle than enlightenment. The past few years many of us have gone through immense change in a very rapid way, and our wardrobes haven't kept pace. Many times I've seen people let go of their excessive wardrobes in favor of a capsule closet in an effort to take a stand against the fashion industry and end up not feeling as fulfilled as they were led to believe they would.
We have always adorned our bodies. Shells and bones strung into necklaces, furs draped over our shoulders, and eventually woven fabrics that became clothing as we know it. We tend to forget these primitive draws to clothing under the weight of capitalism, telling ourselves that indulging in a frivolity like fashion makes us part of the problem.
The fashion industry is a complex behemoth. With that complexity comes the attitudes of Americans looking at it in a very all or nothing light. On the one hand we see influencers spotlighted for massive hauls of the latest famous fast fashion brands have to offer, worn once if at all. On the other hand we see people pushing for sustainable wardrobes, with green brands and natural fabrics. The issues with the former are well known, and I would argue unfairly targeted. As with anything in our culture this is more than just about "bad fashion" and "good fashion", this is about gender, race, body discrimination, and class.
Fast fashion isn't just those brands that come to mind when you hear the term. It's at Target, Nordstrom, Urban Outfitters, anywhere and everywhere, at all price points. It's no longer a niche but a standard, and finding clothing that is made with living wage labor and safe work conditions has become a full time hobby for anyone wanting to simply wear something that wasn't made under subpar conditions, with inferior fabric, and construction that lacks. Terms like "green", "sustainable", "ethical", and "low impact" are thrown around by brands and consumers alike as the cornerstone of conscious fashion, with labels knowing there's no actual certification for using these terms and consumers so desperate to grab at the opposite of "bad fashion" that they eat it up. What began as a handful of brands catering to a well informed niche, has exploded into a marketing ploy for the infographic educated. Nearly every label has some sort of "eco-friendly" line, service, or highly marked up collaboration collection. It doesn't really matter what it is, as long as it's something a consumer can glance at and say "see, they're doing better." Sustainable fashion has become it's own category, and whether it's legitimate or not, it's at a much higher price point than the average clothing line in this era.
Green fashion influencers show off their $80 organic cotton t-shirts followed by a viral clip of the impact of fast fashion and asking you to just "make the switch!". In an effort to put a dent in modern consumerism we've helped companies make more profits than ever. The shame tactics buyers put into play create a class divide that has been superficially bridged by faux sustainable clothing. Tees that look organic, dresses in the colors of vegetable dyes, underwear that has no frills because simplicity is sustainable. We've been told in order to fight consumerism you must first purchase the right things, and if you can't afford the right things you can at least look like you do.
The way young women are blamed as the source of negative global impact is nothing new. Something so biblical feels like the natural way of things for many and they won't be swayed. But for the rest I urge you to see the brand shaming and fear tactics of countless videos and charts as something to question instead of blindly accept. The fashion industry is far from the only one responsible for the horrors of climate change, but it is the one that has women as it's poster child. It's producing something tangible we can hold onto or toss aside, something we can point to in front of us and deem good or bad. We don't stop the judgement with clothing on the hanger, but transfer that to the people wearing it. If someone likes to wear fashion forward styles and shops the cheapest option either from necessity or frugality, they are told to simply "buy less" or shop secondhand. Straight sized women lead their peers into eco-friendly boutiques to introduce them proudly into the elite world of sustainable fashion, which provides style without the guilt, as their plus sized friends stand on the sidelines after seeing the brand only go up to an XL. People of color who have been inadvertently told they're not invited into spaces catering to green fashion then become questioned as to why they don't support "progressive" brands.
I believe the best way to create lasting change for the average person is to begin with yourself. Leading by example is more impactful than shame tactics, but we feel an unshakeable responsibility to shoulder the weight of the world, and can you blame us? We see everything from the far reaches of the globe, how what we consume impacts people thousands of miles away. The problem is we were never given the tools to build a foundation for this constant flow of information under the guise of transparency, and the "let's save the world!" attitude of our youth has felt more and more important while at the same time less possible. So we grasp at whatever we can, and expect our fellow consumers to do the same, holding them to the standard we hold ourselves without considering the differences of each individual and their limitations and tastes.
There are those who create change on levels beyond themselves like Elizabeth Cline, a dedicated writer and fair labor advocate who provides solutions that are well researched and work from the ground up. She's a great follow to reframe your perception on how to help, but when it comes down to it you need to work on yourself first. If you struggle with guilt in buying new clothing, what has caused that guilt? If you thrift a new outfit and feel like a better person than your mall shopping friend, why are you really thrifting? If you make a point to buy sustainable fashion and push those around you to do the same, who are you really shopping for? If it weren't for social media what would your style look like? What would it look like without any negative associations? Look inward and question the things you've been told about personal style. The ways that throw you off balance and are taken advantage of in ways that just keep you spinning.
You adorn your body every day, is it in the way you want or is it in the way you think you should?
